Kat's Korner

Unless otherwise stated, these editorials do not reflect the opinion of A Pet For Life, Inc. Factual information will be gathered through research and Pat's experiences. Any comments, suggestions, or questions will be welcome. If there is anything you'd like to learn more about, feel free to email myself or Pat at apetforlife@comcast.net.
Thank you. ~ Kneicea A. Tull (Kat)

Suggestions For Brushing Your Dog's Teeth

Wish your dog could pop a breath mint? Better step up his dental care. Contrary to popular belief, dog breath isn't supposed to stink. If it does, it could be a sign of gum disease.

To keep your dog's mouth in optimal health, the best thing you can do is brush, brush, brush. Like their human companions, dogs can have gingivitis, receding gums, and even tooth loss from too much tartar buildup, so regular cleanings are a must. To make the experience go as smoothly as possible, follow these simple steps:

1. Buy the right brush. Get a doggie toothbrush, which is smaller and has softer bristles. You can also opt for one that fits right over your fingertips. For toothpaste, buy one that's made specifically for your furry friend -- the human stuff can upset their tummies.

2. Prepare your pal. To get your dog comfortable with having his mouth touched, gently massage his lips. Next, dab them with a little toothpaste so he'll get accustomed to the taste. (See if he'll lick some off your fingers; if he does, reward him with a treat!)

3. Make your move. Gently lift up his lips, and hold the brush to his teeth at a 45-degree angle. Using small strokes, start by cleaning the upper canines, then finish the rest from top to bottom. Don't fret about brushing the tooth's inner surface -- doing the front is enough to tackle tartar.

Along with home brushing, your vet may recommend regular professional cleanings.

Source: DogAge Tip Of The Week - Bold Strokes: Brushing Your Dog's Teeth, 9/3/09
Published Here: 09/06/2009

Cats Purr to Manipulate Humans?

You're not crazy. Your cat actually is using different purr sounds to communicate with you. A recent study from Behavioral Ecology at the University of Sussex shows that cats use a manipulative purr sound known as "solicitation purr" that has evolved in part, to get people to respond to them. Fifty human participants listened to recordings of cat purrs and determined that the solicitation purr sounds were indeed more urgent than regular purring. So what's this mean? Your cat's working her purr to get your attention. But don't tell your friends. They'll think you're crazy.

When our cats purr, it usually makes us happy because we feel we have done something right, pet them in just the right way to bring them pleasure. We also feel that a mutual bond is being formed. But it could be that these sly creatures are using it to get their way. According to a study in the July 14th issue of Current Biology, cats have learned to use purring along with a high pitched meow to get food out of their humans. This combination of affection (purring and rubbing against their owner's legs) and vocalization has the greatest affect in getting what they want. And a purring cat sitting on your lap certainly assures that you'll keep scratching that certain spot under his chin. Until he gets enough and turns on your innocent hand as if he were under attack. Ah, those precious moments. :)

Source: The Daily Cat Tip by www.catster.com 08/03/09 & 08/11/09
Published Here: 08/16/2009

It's a risk all puppy owners take: having a favorite pair of shoes -- or even a sofa -- fall victim to a pooch's teething. Protect your pumps, loafers, clogs, or couch from your dog's developing chompers with these simple tips.

Give her chew toys. Most puppies chew to ease tooth and gum pain, not to intentionally destroy. So your pup will likely enjoy gnawing on a few good chew toys as much, if not more, than your Jimmy Choo slingbacks. But if she keeps sinking her teeth into one, take it away, firmly tell her "no," and replace the shoe with one of her toys. When she chews on the toy, reinforce the behavior with, "You're a good girl."

Keep it interesting. Switch out your pup's chew toys every couple of months so she doesn't get bored and seek out alternatives. Avoid confusion by steering clear of toys that resemble household items -- like those squeaky rubber shoes -- until she gets older.

Puppy-proof as needed. When you're out and about, put your pooch in her crate or an area of the house that's been stripped of all potentially chewable items, except her toys. Move plants and electrical cords out of reach, too.

Run her around. Give your pup plenty of opportunities to be active and get some exercise. This will help prevent two of the leading causes of destructive chewing: boredom and restlessness.

Stray Cat Or Feral Cat
If you’ve noticed a new cat in your neighborhood that you think may be a stray, here are some tips on what you could do to help it.

* A stray cat is someone’s lost or abandoned pet. Even though the cat may be easily spooked, most strays are friendly or at least somewhat approachable. If the cat won’t let you get anywhere close to it, chances are it is a feral cat.

* Be cautious when approaching the cat, and don’t try to hold it against its will. Patience and time may be needed for the kitty to get used to you. Once you have its trust:

* Create a safe haven – Give the cat a room of its own, providing water and food.

* Whether your cat is an indoor or outdoor cat, safeguard it from getting lost by having it wear a collar with an ID tag attached. Have your cat’s name, your name, and your phone number engraved on it. Also, it would be better to use a breakaway or elastic collar since some standard collars may cause choking. Another thing to consider is have a microchip implanted.

* Look for “Lost Cat” signs or posters in your area and ask your neighbors if they know anything about this strange cat.

* If you are unable to reunite the cat with her original owner, ask friends, family, and colleagues whether they may be interested in adopting the cat. Also, consider whether she might be a welcome addition to your family.

* Does the prospective owner live in an unsafe area with lots of traffic or possible predators?

* If the person avoids or responds unsatisfactorily to your questions, or your gut feels funny, keep looking.

* Feral cats are the untamed offspring of unsterilized stray, pet, or other feral cats. They grow up with little to no human interaction so they learn to fear people. They will run when approached and are dangerous to handle. If you have feral cats in your area and want to help, contact your local or national humane society or a feral cat rescue group for advice.

* TNR involves humanely trapping feral cats and taking them to a vet to have the cat spayed/neutered as well as vaccinated against rabies and other diseases. The cats are then return to their colony. (Feral cats tend to form communities known as “colonies” near available food sources and if the cats are left to breed, these colonies can grow very quickly.)

* Studies have shown that TNR does help reduce overpopulation and the problems that come with it (fighting, spraying, caterwauling). It also helps keep the cats healthy by reducing disease within the colonies.

* Prevent cats from becoming homeless in the first place. Do your part by having your own cat spayed or neutered.

Sources: CatAge: Life On The Streets – Part 1 & 2: Published 06/09/09 & 06/16/09
Published Here: 07/19/2009

Also known as “tactile hairs” or vibrissae, whiskers are long, thick, flexible hairs found on your cat’s cheeks, eyebrows, chin, and forelegs. They aren’t just for decoration, nor are they used for balance. These hairs are actually feelers. Connected to nerve endings deep within the skin, whiskers act as little transmitters which allow your pet to find her way in her environment. These fine hairs are so sensitive, they can detect the slightest directional change in a breeze allowing your cat to avoid running into things in the dark.

Like hair and nails, whiskers do fall out and are replaced, but whiskers are different from the cat’s body hair in a few ways:
    • Whiskers should never be cut or trimmed
    • Whiskers are two to three times thicker than the cat’s hair
    • Whiskers are rooted very deep in the cat’s face, in an area rich in nerves and blood vessels

Cat’s whiskers are good for several things:
    • Navigation
        o For navigation, a cat uses its whiskers through changes in the air currents. As the cat approaches an object, such as a couch or chair, it knows which way to turn    based on the change in the air current around the object.
    • Mood indication
        o When a cat is angry or feels defensive, the whiskers will be pulled back. When the cat is happy, curious, or content, the whiskers will be more relaxed and pushed forward.
    • Measuring an opening
        o Cat’s whiskers allow it to judge whether or not it will fit through an opening. A cat’s whiskers are roughly as wide as its body. Since the tips of the whiskers are sensitive to pressure, it uses them to determine if it can fit into an opening. An interesting note: cats don’t have a true collar bone, like humans, which allows them to turn and twist their way through very narrow openings.

And mice better beware: Once those whiskers are aimed toward its prey, a cat not only knows where the prey is, but also can make a good guess about where they may go next.

According to some statistics, it is said that antifreeze is responsible for poisoning of over ten thousand dogs annually. The toxic ingredient to blame is ethylene glycol, which is a substance found in not only antifreeze, but also in radiator coolant, brake fluid, hydraulic fluid, and other automotive liquids. Since it smells and tastes sweet, it is attractive to our pets and only a little can cause a lot of damage. One to two teaspoons can poison a cat, and three tablespoons can kill a medium-sized dog. Because it's a substance readily available at auto supply stores and is used in nearly every motor vehicle on the road, it's important for pet owners to know a few things about antifreeze and its effects on small animals. Here are seven things pet owners should be aware of:

Successful treatment for antifreeze poisoning depends upon the amount of ethylene glycol consumed. Treatment is based on decreasing the absorption of the poison from the stomach and intestine by increasing its excretion through the kidneys.

Prevention is the best option. Please take special care and make extra sure that all poisonous household and automotive substances are inaccessible to any of your furry friends.

Source: Dogster - 7 Things You Need To Know About Antifreeze, June 2, 2009
Antifreeze Poisoning in Dogs and Cats at http://www.2ndchance.info/antifreeze.htm
Published Here: 06/07/2009

Separation Anxiety in Cats?!

Although it’s more common with dogs, cats do suffer from separation anxiety. For most cats, aloofness is just a myth. Cats can be extremely sociable and can bond deeply with people and/or other animals, meaning they can become stressed and uneasy just like dogs do when they are left alone. Common signs of this anxiety include: hiding; “going” where they shouldn’t; meowing or grooming constantly; and being destructive, clingy, or sullen. Thankfully, it can be treated. To be safe, if your cat shows any of these signs, (especially if you notice litter-box problems, which could indicate a urinary tract problem) check with your veterinarian to rule out a physical cause.

When fear is the cause of aggression, solving or greatly improving the behavior has a higher success rate than solving other forms.

-Overreact to people who are tall or large, have facial hair, have loud or deep voices, someone standing instead of sitting, or unusual movement.

-May warm up to the person in the room who is not a dog lover, who makes no effort to interact with the dog

-Difficulty dealing with people who are carrying things or who are wearing hats, glasses, tool belts, or backpacks

(To help prevent some fears, young dogs need to have lots of positive experiences in many contexts to develop confidence around a wide-range of people.)

By The Numbers: 5 Signs of Fearful Aggression, Pg. 88
Published Here: 05/10/2009

Emergency Preparedness For Your Pet
(Remember to include your pets in your emergency plan.)

With the season for severe weather at hand in our area, this is just a little reminder to remember to include your pets in your family's emergency plan. Be prepared in the event of an emergency by planning ahead.

If it isn’t safe for you to be home, then it isn’t safe for your pets, so it is essential that you always take your animals with you during an evacuation. Research safe places to take your pets during an evacuation. The Red Cross does not allow animals into its facilities, due to public health and safety reasons.

Pack an evacuation kit in advance and include enough materials for each of your pets.

Make sure your pets have clearly marked identification in case they somehow become separated from you.

Work with family and friends before a disaster strikes to form a joint plan of action.

Source: Healthy Pet, Spring 2008 Issue, Pgs. 28-29
Published Here: 04/26/2009

Cat Diseases and Illnesses
(For those of you, like me, who have cats and wonder about the abbreviations for feline diseases and vaccines, I've included a little information below. Any further questions or concerns you may have should be addressed by by your veterinarian. ~ Kat)

1) Urinary Tract Conditions
        Signs:
            - Frequent urination, producing small amounts of urine
            - Straining when urinating
            - Desiring to go outside often to urinate
        Secondary Signs:
            - Licking the genital area excessively
            - Urinating on smooth surfaces rather than inside the litter box
If your cat shows any of these symptoms, visit your veterinarian for appropriate treatment. If this condition is due to bacteria, your veterinarian will probably prescribe antibiotics.

2) Respiratory Infection
        Signs:
            - Serious cold-like symptoms, such as nasal discharge
            - Lack of appetite
            - Depression
            - Fever
            - Pneumonia
    Cats are most susceptible to three highly contagious respiratory infections, all of which can be fatal and easily transferred via direct contact from cat to cat. The three infections are feline viral rhinotracheitis (FVR), feline calcivirus (FCV), and feline pneumonitis. The best way to prevent your cat from being infected is to keep your cat on a feline vaccination program, recommended by your veterinarian.
Treatment of these is the same. This includes proper rest, good nutrition, and proper nursing care.

3) Panleukopenia
        Signs:
            - Lack of appetite
            - High fever
            - Depression
            - Dehydration
            - Vomiting
    Also known as feline distemper, it is a highly contagious viral disease transmitted between cats via contact with bodily        secretions. Feline panleukopenia is a severe & highly infectious disease caused by a virus from the Parvovirus family. It has a high mortality rate of 25% - 70%. The name panleukopenia is derived from the very low white blood cell count in infected cats.
Vaccination is the best preventative against this condition.
There are no medications available to kill the virus. Antibodies usually appear within around 3 - 4 days of infection, so if the cat can be kept alive for this long, hopefully the antibodies will be able to fight off the infection. Two days later there is a sharp rebound in the white blood cell count. Blood transfusions may be given if the white blood cell count drops significantly. Due to the lowered white blood cell count, antibiotics may be prescribed to help fight off secondary bacterial infections. Electrolytes are often administered intravenously to stave off dehydration, which in itself is dangerous to the cat. Injections of vitamin B & C are sometimes given. Plenty of tender loving care is important. Cats may lose the will to live.

4) Heart Disease
        Signs:
            - Lack of appetitie
            - Increased weariness/lethargy
            - Less activity
            - Difficulty breathing
            - Gagging
            - Weight loss
            - Coughing
            - Paralysis of the lower back
    Most common is hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM), which is a progressive illness that causes the muscles and walls of particular regions of the heart to become unusually thick. This can severely affect the heart’s function, possibly leading to heart failure. The cause of HCM is unknown, but such cat diseases as hyperthyroidism can affect the heart muscle and may lead to heart disease. It is common in Maine coon cats and American shorthair breeds.
Currently, there is no known cure. The symptoms may be treated with diuretics, beta-blockers, vasodilators, and low dose aspirin.

5) Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
        Signs:
            - Fever
            - Conjunctivitis
            - Diarrhea
            - Upper respiratory problems
            - Swollen abdomen
    FIP is caused by feline corona virus. Corona viruses are contagious and transmitted cat-to-cat via close contact with an infected cat’s feces or saliva. Of the cats with a corona infection, 2 to 3 percent of them will develop FIP. Cats of all ages are susceptible to FIP; however, cats between six months and two years of age, as well as senior cats fourteen to fifteen years old, are at greatest risk. Cats who have feline leukemia virus (FeLV) are more likely to also become infected with FIP.
Currently, there is no known cure for FIP.

6) Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)
        Signs:
            - Anemia
            - Blood in the stool, diarrhea or constipation
            - Excessive drinking and urination
            - Swollen lymph nodes (Lymphadenopathy)
            - Mild fever
            - Chronic, recurring infections
            - Decreased appetite
            - Decreased stamina
            - Depression
    Feline leukemia virus is responsible for more deaths among cats than any other infectious disease. It is spread through bodily fluids, most often through infected saliva. There are three main types: FeLV-A which occurs in all FeLV infected cats and causes a severely weakened immune system; FeLV-B occurs in about 50% of all FeLV-infected cats and causes tumors and other abnormal tissue growths than FeLV-A infected cats; FeLV-C occurs in about 1% of FeLV-infected cats and causes severe anemia. It starts by infecting the tonsils and lymph nodes in the neck, then spreads through the bloodstream to other parts of the body, especially the lymph nodes, bone marrow, and intestinal tissue.
Currently, there is no known cure for FeLV.

7) Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)
        Signs of initial FIV infection:
            - Fever
            - Anemia
            - Diarrhea
            - Enlarged lymph nodes
            - Decrease in white blood cells (neutropenia)
            (These initial symptoms of viral infection are usually followed by a period of normalcy, which can last months or years before the immunodeficiency disease occurs.)
        FIV-positive cats may have the following symptoms:
            - Pneumonia
            - Diarrhea
            - Skin disease
            - Eye diseases
            - Sinus infections
            - Neurological problems
    Feline immunodeficiency virus is similar to the human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) and is transmitted among cats via bites, but FIV is not transmissible to humans. Cats with FeLV are more likely to become infected as are outdoor male cats, especially ones who are not neutered.
No treatment exists to eliminate the virus and the subsequent disease. Health problems that arise due to FIV infection can be treated to help preserve a cat’s quality of life, which may enable him or her to live many more months or years after becoming infected.

Sources: Animal Health Channel
                Feline Leukemia Virus - Symptoms and Diagnosis
                    http://www.animalhealthchannel.com/FeLV/symptoms.shtml
            CatAge - Feline Care
                Cat Diseases and Illnesses - Urinary Tract Conditions
                Cat Diseases and Illnesses - Respiratory Infection
                Cat Diseases and Illnesses - Panleukopenia
                Cat Diseases and Illnesses - Heart Disease
                Cat Diseases and Illnesses - Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
                Cat Diseases and Illnesses - Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)
                    http://www.catage.com
Published Here: 04/12/2009

Because so many of our local popular breeds are hounds and hunting dogs, I thought this information may be useful to many dog owners.

Ear cleaning is not a tail-wagging event for many dogs, but occasional gentle cleaning is the best way to prevent ear infections. Your dog’s ear is more L-shaped than yours, and debris loves to collect at the corner of the L. To remove this debris, here are a few pointers:

    1) Have your vet recommend an ear wash solution and demonstrate how it should be used. (Ear cleaners should be slightly acidic but should NOT sting.) Also, ask how often and how thoroughly you should be attending to your dog’s ears because over-cleaning can be harmful.
    2) Wash your hands before beginning. This will prevent introducing anything foreign into your dog’s ears.
    3) For very dirty ears, place the tip of the bottle of ear wash just a few millimeters inside the ear canal and slowly squirt in the recommended amount. (For a quick cleaning, apply the ear wash to the cotton ball, then place the cotton ball in your dog’s ear and gently rub up and down.)
    4) Rub lightly around the base of the ear with your fingers to help the solution settle in, for approximately twenty (20) to thirty (30) seconds. This helps to soften and release the debris.
    5) Wipe out any discharge, wax, loose debris and excess fluid with a cotton ball. Do not dig and do not use cotton swabs in the ear canal. Leave deep cleansing to the professionals.

Warnings:
    * If your dog has chronic ear infections, consult a veterinarian. Chronic ear infections could be a sign of allergies or other problems.
    * If the ear canal looks abnormal, clean only the outside and consult a vet.

Source: DogAge – January 8, 2009
www.peteducation.com
Published Here: 03/29/2009

If you’re thinking of adopting a new cat and have spotted the most adorable kitten in the world, please think carefully before signing the adoption papers. Ask yourself if an adult cat may be better suited for your family. Here are a couple of reasons why:

1) Kittens require more time and energy than adult cats. Similar to toddlers, kittens need lots of attention, interaction, and supervision. Be realistic about how much time you have to devote to a new pet, and keep in mind kittens – unlike most adult cats – will need to be trained to use a litter box and scratching post. If you think you’re up to it, great. If not, consider the advantages of adopting an adult cat.

2) Kittens require patience (and forgiveness). They have lots of energy and operate at high velocity several hours a day (and NIGHT). If you can tolerate a furry ballistic missile running through your house, climbing up and down your curtains, and scampering across your tabletops, countertops, and anything else they can jump on, by all means, adopt a kitten. If you aren’t prepared for such high energy, consider adopting an older cat. Adult cats, though still quite active and playful, tend to move a little slower and are a little less hyperactive.

3) Kittens and Kids don’t always mix. If your children haven’t yet learned the difference between a toy and a living creature, keep your kids – and your cat – safe by opting for a more mature, less fragile, cat, not a kitten. But choose carefully. Not all cats are kid-friendly. You should take your children with you to the shelter to see firsthand how individual cats respond to your little ones.

Carefully weigh the advantages and disadvantages in adopting a kitten or a cat before making your final decision and keep in mind the years of commitment you’ll be making to this pet when you add him/her to your family.

Over the years, I have had the opportunity to adopt both kittens and adult cats. My youngest kitten was three weeks of age when she found me, and my oldest cat was six years old when my husband and I adopted her from APFL. We also have one who was six months old and one who was four years old, so I’ve seen the advantages and disadvantages with kittens versus adult cats. In my opinion, the advantages of adopting an adult cat outweigh those of adopting a kitten. With my three week old kitten, we went through the initial vet care, vaccines, the deworming, the testing, and the altering. It takes a lot of time and can become expensive. Along with the expense, you must have the time and energy to train and socialize your kitten. With my six year old cat, the adoption was much easier. She had already gone through the “growing pains” and training. It was almost like adopting an instant pet. By spending some time with an adult cat, you can see the good (and bad) personality traits of the individual cat, allowing you to make a more informed decision. I’ve also discovered that cats have a way of choosing you, rather than you choosing them.

Now, I’m not saying that kittens aren’t cute when they are young and furry, but all too soon they grow up and you may end up with something more than you expected. With adult cats, their individuality is already established and you get a better idea of what you may be adopting. Kittens are energetic and playful, but please don’t rule out adopting an adult cat. The adult cats I’ve adopted are still very playful, acting much younger than their actual age and they can be quite a clown when they try to catch their own tail. My adult cats are also calm enough to “allow” me to give them attention and affection by petting and brushing them. I’ve also found that adult cats, especially rescues, seem to be much more appreciative of their new home.

Whether you decide to adopt a kitten or an adult cat, please be objective. Don’t discriminate against adopting an older cat because of its age. Just keep an open mind. Every individual kitten and cat has a different personality. You may miss out on adopting a very special four-legged friend.

Spring is almost here and for those of you who are preparing your gardens, flower beds, or lawns using mulch, please be aware of the possible risks to your pets. You could be unwittingly putting them at risk, especially with the use of Cocoa Mulch.

Made from the hulls of cocoa beans, Cocoa Mulch contains two key ingredients found in chocolate: theobromine and caffeine, which can be harmful to dogs. Attracted by the scent, some dogs eat the mulch, consuming quantities large enough to be toxic. A dog that eats just a few ounces of cocoa mulch could starting having stomach problems and it could get worse if it eats more.

Some manufacturers of cocoa mulch (such as the Cocoa Mulch brand) now proclaim that their products are theobromine-free and pet safe. Responsible pet owners should take care in their selection of cocoa mulch brands; some might prefer to choose another form of soil enhancement for their gardens, such as cedar-based products, rather than gamble their dogs won't be attracted to or harmed by cocoa mulch. 03/13/2009

A reminder: Tick season is right around the corner, generally running from April through September.

They aren't just annoying little bugs. They can infect your dog or cat with Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and other tick-borne diseases. So if your pet loves the great outdoors -- particularly if he or she wanders into wooded areas -- make sure to check his or her coat thoroughly and often, especially around the ears and neck. If you spot the bloodsuckers, remove them as soon as possible!

A tick that has burrowed into your pet's skin may be tricky to take out. Here's how to do it:
    1) Slip on a pair of gloves to avoid direct contact with the tick.
    2) Use tweezers to grasp the tick by its head at the point where it's attached to your pet's body.
    3) Gently pull the tick away from the skin, but do not twist. Make sure you remove the entire tick -- anything left under the skin can cause an infection.
    4) Clean the bite area with antiseptic, and wipe your tweezers with rubbing alcohol. You can kill the tick by placing it in a glass jar that contains at least several inches of the alcohol.

Contact your vet if the skin around the tick bite remains irritated. The best prevention is to use a flea- and tick-preventative year round. Check with your vet to see which product he/she recommends for your pet's lifestyle and location.

Rescue A Human Today
(This story came to me through email from one of our loving families and I wanted to share it with all of you!)